Today, I’m very excited to feature a menu preview contributed by Toriano Fredericks of Boricua Soul—a brand new food truck that’s hitting the streets this weekend! Its first official appearance will be at the Pittsboro Street Fair on Saturday, Oct. 24.
Toriano’s family has been fusing Soul food and Puerto
Rican cuisines in their kitchen for years and they can’t wait to share it with the
Triangle area! Familiarize yourself with the menu and learn the story and history behind the food in Toriano’s blog below. Try not to get hungry while reading it…I dare you.
Rican cuisines in their kitchen for years and they can’t wait to share it with the
Triangle area! Familiarize yourself with the menu and learn the story and history behind the food in Toriano’s blog below. Try not to get hungry while reading it…I dare you.
***
Soul food and Puerto Rican food have many common threads
and similar histories; mixing the two creates the best of both worlds in our
eyes. In Puerto Rico, the cuisine was born from mixing Spanish, West African
and Tiano Indian ingredients and techniques. Soul food finds its roots in
much of the same soil, but varying locations across the south eastern U.S. leads to many variables in different parts of the country.
and similar histories; mixing the two creates the best of both worlds in our
eyes. In Puerto Rico, the cuisine was born from mixing Spanish, West African
and Tiano Indian ingredients and techniques. Soul food finds its roots in
much of the same soil, but varying locations across the south eastern U.S. leads to many variables in different parts of the country.
The hardest part about creating the menu for Boricua Soul was trying to narrow down so many iconic greats to a menu that is
manageable with the limited storage space of a food truck. Add in the fact that
we want to include some of the food culture outside of Puerto Rico and the
American South where West African, European and Native American culture collide.
Here are some of the items we have planned when windows go up in October:
manageable with the limited storage space of a food truck. Add in the fact that
we want to include some of the food culture outside of Puerto Rico and the
American South where West African, European and Native American culture collide.
Here are some of the items we have planned when windows go up in October:
Hoecake Sandwiches
By the time Europeans reached the Americas, Native
Americans were already perfecting the many uses of corn, including cornbread.
They taught slaves and Europeans how to make cornbread and many different
styles developed in both Northern and Southern kitchens. The “correct” or
authentic way of making cornbread is always hotly contested, but my all-time
favorite is the hoecake.
Americans were already perfecting the many uses of corn, including cornbread.
They taught slaves and Europeans how to make cornbread and many different
styles developed in both Northern and Southern kitchens. The “correct” or
authentic way of making cornbread is always hotly contested, but my all-time
favorite is the hoecake.
A hoecake is essentially a cornbread batter cooked on a
metal skillet or flat surface. In his book “Soul Food,” Adrian Miller describes
them as the following, “In the Big House, a much larger, well equipped
fireplace was used to prepare cornbread. Instead of being placed in the ashes
of a live fire, the cornmeal dough was baked on a flat metal surface called a ‘hoe,’”
thus acquiring the name “hoe cake.”
metal skillet or flat surface. In his book “Soul Food,” Adrian Miller describes
them as the following, “In the Big House, a much larger, well equipped
fireplace was used to prepare cornbread. Instead of being placed in the ashes
of a live fire, the cornmeal dough was baked on a flat metal surface called a ‘hoe,’”
thus acquiring the name “hoe cake.”
Small sandwiches make great street food and we wanted to
do something unique that can’t be found in many places – that’s where the
hoecake comes in. When I used to stand by the stove on a Sunday or Holiday
waiting for these crispy cornbread disks to emerge from my grandmother or aunt’s
cast iron skillet, I had no clue of their Native American roots; I just knew I
loved them. When I learned about members of the Lumbee Tribe of North
Carolina making collard sandwiches with cornbread, other possibilities
flowed into my head. We make the dough a little different than my grandmother
to facilitate them being cut in half and used as a sandwich. They are also
cooked with less fat on a flattop rather than a cast iron skillet, making them
a little softer and better suited for a sandwich. The options of what you stuff
inside are endless, but here are a few we will start with:
do something unique that can’t be found in many places – that’s where the
hoecake comes in. When I used to stand by the stove on a Sunday or Holiday
waiting for these crispy cornbread disks to emerge from my grandmother or aunt’s
cast iron skillet, I had no clue of their Native American roots; I just knew I
loved them. When I learned about members of the Lumbee Tribe of North
Carolina making collard sandwiches with cornbread, other possibilities
flowed into my head. We make the dough a little different than my grandmother
to facilitate them being cut in half and used as a sandwich. They are also
cooked with less fat on a flattop rather than a cast iron skillet, making them
a little softer and better suited for a sandwich. The options of what you stuff
inside are endless, but here are a few we will start with:
The Country Cuban — This is our take on a
classic sandwich that was born in Tampa, Florida by the hands of Cuban
immigrants. We will put our Boricua Soul spin on the sandwich by replacing the
bread with a hoecake. The inside will have ham, smoked pork butt, pickles, and
mustard-based barbecue sauce.
classic sandwich that was born in Tampa, Florida by the hands of Cuban
immigrants. We will put our Boricua Soul spin on the sandwich by replacing the
bread with a hoecake. The inside will have ham, smoked pork butt, pickles, and
mustard-based barbecue sauce.
Roasted Chicken — With this sandwich we are
taking chicken, roasting it Puerto Rican style with garlic, onion, and seasonings
along with citrus flavors, and putting it inside our hoecake corn bread.
taking chicken, roasting it Puerto Rican style with garlic, onion, and seasonings
along with citrus flavors, and putting it inside our hoecake corn bread.
Collard Sandwich — This sandwich pays homage
to the collard sandwich made by Glen and Dorsey Hunt of the Lumbee Tribe of
North Carolina. In my family, the hoecake was used to sop up the juice from the
collards (aka potlikker) but it was a genius move when the Hunts piled some
greens between two pieces of cornbread at a fair. Ours will have some
black-eye peas sprinkled in to add our twist.
to the collard sandwich made by Glen and Dorsey Hunt of the Lumbee Tribe of
North Carolina. In my family, the hoecake was used to sop up the juice from the
collards (aka potlikker) but it was a genius move when the Hunts piled some
greens between two pieces of cornbread at a fair. Ours will have some
black-eye peas sprinkled in to add our twist.
Empanadas (Pastelillos)
Empanadas are literally food wrapped in pastry dough and
cooked. You will see variations in preparation and ingredients up and down the
Americas and the Caribbean.
cooked. You will see variations in preparation and ingredients up and down the
Americas and the Caribbean.
When I started dating Serena (my wife) she urged me
to try making some Puerto Rican dishes. The first time I made empanadas I
immediately started imagining the multitude of things I could
stuff them with. In 2010, Serene urged me to
enter my pulled pork empanadas into the North Carolina State Fair and I was
awarded a red ribbon – that’s when I realized I was on to something with the
crispy pastries and they’ll definitely have a place on the food truck.
to try making some Puerto Rican dishes. The first time I made empanadas I
immediately started imagining the multitude of things I could
stuff them with. In 2010, Serene urged me to
enter my pulled pork empanadas into the North Carolina State Fair and I was
awarded a red ribbon – that’s when I realized I was on to something with the
crispy pastries and they’ll definitely have a place on the food truck.
Beef — We’re keeping it classic with this one. We want this crispy treat to transport you to
a street vendor in Puerto Rico. It will hold perfectly seasoned ground beef with fresh made
sofrito, a bit of tomato sauce and little bits of green olives inside a crispy
fried pastry.
a street vendor in Puerto Rico. It will hold perfectly seasoned ground beef with fresh made
sofrito, a bit of tomato sauce and little bits of green olives inside a crispy
fried pastry.
Chopped BBQ — When you let a pork shoulder
brine overnight, then smoke it for 10 hours, season it, lay down some house
made Eastern Carolina Style BBQ Sauce, chop it and then put it inside a crispy
fried Puerto Rican Pastry you get Boricua and Soul colliding for the perfect
street food. Anytime you can eat chopped BBQ with one hand and not look like a
complete slob is a win.
brine overnight, then smoke it for 10 hours, season it, lay down some house
made Eastern Carolina Style BBQ Sauce, chop it and then put it inside a crispy
fried Puerto Rican Pastry you get Boricua and Soul colliding for the perfect
street food. Anytime you can eat chopped BBQ with one hand and not look like a
complete slob is a win.
Bean, Veg and Queso — Of course we also want our vegetarian friends to join in the fun, so we constructed an empanada that brings in some of both cultures iconic veggies and beans. We rough chop black-eyed peas to bring in a meaty flavor, add black beans, pickled okra,
and collard greens and scatter in queso blanco. The result is a cheesy, veggie and
bean-filled crunch that even carnivores will find satisfying.
and collard greens and scatter in queso blanco. The result is a cheesy, veggie and
bean-filled crunch that even carnivores will find satisfying.
Sides, Soups & Specials
Mac and cheese — Growing up, a family gathering didn’t take place without mac and cheese anchoring the table. Mac and cheese is a dish of European origin that has found its way into the pantheon of soul food. Sure, not all versions are soul food dishes, but with the right seasoning, some eggs, cream, a ton of cheese and breadcrumbs for crunch, you will have little doubt about what kind of mac and cheese you’re eating.
Tostones Cups — When Christopher Columbus came to the island that is now Puerto Rico, he found the Taino Indians. Puerto Rico cuisine begins with the Taino people then European (mainly Spanish), and African slaves greatly influenced the kitchens on the island. The African influence can be directly seen in Tostones. Along with West African slaves, came the plantain and the method of frying, two very important elements of tostones.
Tostones are sliced green
plantains that are fried, smashed then fried for a second time. Instead of
smashing them flat after the first fry, we will smash them into a cup, fry
it, and add various goodies like chopped bbq, blackened fish or sausage.
plantains that are fried, smashed then fried for a second time. Instead of
smashing them flat after the first fry, we will smash them into a cup, fry
it, and add various goodies like chopped bbq, blackened fish or sausage.
Collard Greens — This hardy green has been around
for a long while with evidence of the Greeks munching on the soul leaf 2,000
years ago. From what I can gather, collards made their way to Europe and down to Africa as early as the 1600s where West Africans featured
them in their vegetable heavy diets. On their arrival to North America,
West African slaves would have found collards growing in the colonist’s gardens
and were already familiar with the “wild” cabbage.
for a long while with evidence of the Greeks munching on the soul leaf 2,000
years ago. From what I can gather, collards made their way to Europe and down to Africa as early as the 1600s where West Africans featured
them in their vegetable heavy diets. On their arrival to North America,
West African slaves would have found collards growing in the colonist’s gardens
and were already familiar with the “wild” cabbage.
When my grandmother migrated North from Georgia, she
carried her love for greens and passed it on to me as she served them
in our New England kitchen. She generally used pork when cooking her greens but
I did see smoked turkey find its way into the mix from time to time. After
using smoked turkey a number of times we decided to use it in our greens as we
have been able to get great flavor from them and don’t feel we are slighting
the swine as it has an appearance many other places on the menu. In order to
make vegetarians feel welcome, collards will also be cooked without
meat for the collard hoecake sandwich.
carried her love for greens and passed it on to me as she served them
in our New England kitchen. She generally used pork when cooking her greens but
I did see smoked turkey find its way into the mix from time to time. After
using smoked turkey a number of times we decided to use it in our greens as we
have been able to get great flavor from them and don’t feel we are slighting
the swine as it has an appearance many other places on the menu. In order to
make vegetarians feel welcome, collards will also be cooked without
meat for the collard hoecake sandwich.
Soups, Stews and Boils — We hope to shine light on some of our
favorite soups, stews and boils that have emerged from the blending of cultures in the American South to the tip of South America. We will feature things like Puerto Rican chicken stew, New
Orleans gumbo, South Carolina low county Brunswick stew, chicken and cornbread
dumplings, Brazilian moqueca and more.
favorite soups, stews and boils that have emerged from the blending of cultures in the American South to the tip of South America. We will feature things like Puerto Rican chicken stew, New
Orleans gumbo, South Carolina low county Brunswick stew, chicken and cornbread
dumplings, Brazilian moqueca and more.
This is just an intro to some of the things you may find on the
menu in the opening days of Boricua Soul Food Truck. Don’t get down if your
Puerto Rican or Soul Food favorite was left out because we have many classics ready and waiting for their chance to shine on the Boricua
Soul menu board. Fried chicken, mofungo, fried okra, and relleno de papa are
just a few that we will try to ease into the rotation. We look forward to
getting started and introducing you to our Boricua Soul.
menu in the opening days of Boricua Soul Food Truck. Don’t get down if your
Puerto Rican or Soul Food favorite was left out because we have many classics ready and waiting for their chance to shine on the Boricua
Soul menu board. Fried chicken, mofungo, fried okra, and relleno de papa are
just a few that we will try to ease into the rotation. We look forward to
getting started and introducing you to our Boricua Soul.
Photos: Toriano Fredericks
[…] first featured Boricua Soul on the blog with the launch of their food truck in 2015. Since then, we’ve enjoyed watching this local […]